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Bukowski, W1: Smoking, char-grilling, tantalizing

Sitting boldly on D’Arblay Street, just a few doors down from Soho BBQ institution Bodeans, Bukowski.

I can’t not have the fried mac n cheese [£5.25], five delicious cubes of oozy goodness, served in a creamy, moreish cheese sauce with chopped gherkins.

Half the mains are burgers, so I order the Smokey Beast [£10.95]: everything on it is, well, smoked, including the pulled pork on top of the insanely juicy beef patty, the honey and chipotle sauce – even the garlic in the mayo. Filled with sweet tobacco onions, it arrives stacked at least six inches high – it’s daunting, but I cope. My boyfriend goes for the signature 72-hour beef rib [£12.25], served mainly off the bone, meaning I don’t have to watch him gnawing at it like a caveman. It’s perfectly charred on the outside, nice and pink on the inside – special mention to the beef dripping potatoes [£3.50]. Overall? Naughty but nice – just like the staff.

Bukowski – 10 D’Arblay St, Soho, London W1F 8DS – 020 3857 4756

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